Tag Archives: cats

Cats Have Their Own Apartment

Why Do Cats Meow
Photo Courtesy of Women’s World

Two cats in Silicon Valley are the pampered renters and sole occupiers of a $1,500 per month studio.

The landlord says the cats haven’t made much fuss, keep to themselves, lounge around in a cat tree most of the day, and always pay their rent on time—the prrrrfect tenants, you might say.

“It’s quirky isn’t it?” landlord David Callisch told CBS San Francisco (KPIX). “People love their pets, they’re part of their family.”

The father of Victoria Amith, a freshman at Azusa Pacific University in Southern California is paying for his daughter’s cats to have their own pad because she couldn’t take the cats, Louise and Tina, to her dorm with her when she started school. The man’s fiancé’s dog and the cats weren’t getting along at his home in the Bay Area, so he approached Callisch and offered to rent the studio, located behind a single-family home in Willow Glen, Calif., for the pets.

Studios in Willow Glen typically rent for just under $2,000 per month, KPIX reports, so the cats are getting a bargain at $1,500. Callisch feeds the cats every day. Amith visits them on breaks from school.

Amith emphasizes that the cats are using space in someone’s backyard and that the arrangement is temporary “There’s obviously a huge housing issue in the area, and I don’t want people to be like, ‘Oh, this is taking away the housing,’” Amith told KPIX.

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    Three Surprising Ways to Save Money on Pet Care

    Image result for copyright free dog photos

    (NewsUSA) – Owning a pet comes with a lot of benefits — but caring for a pet can also have an unwelcome impact on your budget. According to the ASPCA, owning a dog or cat can cost up to $1,000 in the first year, and many people end up spending much more. The good news is, you can cut your pet care expenses without compromising your pet’s health and wellbeing. Here are a few tips to save money on pet care:

    1. Don’t skip the vet.

    If you’re trying to save money, it can be tempting to cut back on veterinary visits. But, according to Julie Ciarmella of the American Veterinary Medicine Association, “an investment in preventive healthcare can reduce your long-term pet healthcare costs.” Why? Because regular check-ups can prevent expensive complications down the road.

    2. Get by with a little help from your friends.

    Dog-walking, pet-sitting and kennel services can be one of the most expensive aspects of owning a pet. You can save money by taking the “you scratch my dog’s back, I’ll scratch your cat’s chin” approach and tapping into a network of other pet owners in your area. Neighborhood dog parks are great places to meet like-minded pet lovers; or you could try good old fashioned advertising.

    3. Choose high-quality pet products that give you more value for your money.

    Reaching for the cheapest product can feel like a thrifty move, but you may be surprised by the impact “cheap” products can have on your budget. For example, cheaper clay cat litter needs to be changed more often — 

    In the end, remember that what your pet needs most is love. Keep things simple and invest in high-value products where it matters, and you’ll be on your way to a pet-care budget that works for you.

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      Kitten Marshmallow at Four Weeks Old

      httpv://youtu.be/Jeg3QM1Ysq8

      Marshmallow was born on March 1st with low birth weight (~60% of the normal expected weight at about 66g or 2.3 oz). A month later, Marshy is breaking one pound, about 7 times the birthweight. At this point, we’re just thankful that she’s made it through the first month. What a blessing she is.

      Below are some notable changes in Marshy’s behavior:

      She refuses to stay in her nest box, rebelliously clawing and crying murder when she is placed there. Marshy is also able to regulate her body temperature better now to the point where she no longer needs a heating pad or “rice socks” to keep warm when mama Mochi is not around. We used to place a heating pad beneath the nest box to cover about ½ of the surface area, so Marshy could keep warm, but also move off the heated area if she felt hot.

      With her head held high and steady, Marshmallow has become more photogenic as well, often times staring curiously straight into one’s eyes, a move that would melt any stone heart.

      Source of text Youtube
      John J. O’Dell Realtor® GRI
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      Allergic to Your Pets? Here’s Help!

      by Lisa J. Lehr

      It’s spring!

      While most people are busy doing little happy dances about the longer days and warmer, sunnier weather, allergy sufferers often have a different reaction: dread.

      For people with year-round allergies to pets, however, spring just adds insult to injury. Tragically, allergies are among the most common reasons people give up their pets, and the misguided fear that a child may develop allergies prevents some people from having pets in the first place.

      The good news is that this is all totally unnecessary. Some education about pets, people, and allergies will save a lot of pets from the animal shelter, and a lot of kids from the deprivation of growing up without pets.

      Recently, numerous studies have found that kids who grow up in a home with dogs and cats actually have a significantly lower risk of developing common indoor and outdoor allergies. This means not only to cats and dogs, but also to dust mites, grass, ragweed, and Alternaria, a fungus found in the air.

      Many studies have found lower rates of allergies and asthma among children who grew up on a farm and were around lots of animals, as well as among people who have continually owned a pet as compared to new pet owners or to people who had pets earlier in life but not currently.

      In the February 2006 issue of Reader’s Digest, “Scratch Those Allergies” (page 208), with advice from allergist Clifford Bassett, MD gives the following suggestions:

      • –Ban pets from the bedroom, and get a HEPA air purifier.
      • –No pet is completely hypoallergenic, but those that shed more trigger more symptoms.
      • –Vacuum and dust often to eliminate sneeze-inducing dander and fur.
      • –Bathe and brush your pet often, especially if he sheds. If your symptoms are severe, have someone else do it for you.
      • I’d like to add a few points:
      • –Don’t be too quick to assume you or your child is allergic to a pet when it could easily be something else—a pillow or teddy bear, the sofa, the carpet, or anything capable of harboring allergens. Cats, especially, get blamed for a lot of allergic reactions they didn’t cause.
      • –Brush and/or vacuum your sofa, wash your bedspread and throw pillows, and shake out porous, crud-collecting items outdoors. Look in pet stores or online for products (including sticky rollers, strips, and sheets) that remove fur from furniture surfaces.
      • — Brush your pets daily and use an allergy-reducing spray such as Allerpet.
      • –Wash your hands after handling your pets, as well as their toys, bedding, dishes, etc. Be especially careful not to touch your nose or eyes before you wash your hands.
      • –Keep your pets’ skin healthy by feeding them a good quality food and a fatty acid supplement.
      • –Put electrostatic filters in your heating and air conditioning system. Every time you run it, the filters attract fur (along with other allergens). They’re more costly than the disposable ones, but they last indefinitely. (You just have to clean them.)
      • –If at all possible, get rid of your wall-to-wall carpet. With smooth flooring (vinyl, hardwood, tile, laminate) and a few area rugs, you’ll be amazed at how much cleaner your home feels and smells. Not only do you have less allergen-attracting surface area, it is much easier to thoroughly clean smooth floors and area rugs than installed carpet.
      • –Don’t assume that longhaired pets are more allergenic than shorthaired ones. Shorthaired pets can shed just as much, especially those with thick coats. They may actually shed more, because a long-haired pet’s fur tends to hang up in the surrounding fur rather than fall to the floor. (That’s why these pets need to be brushed.)
      • –While no pet is completely hypoallergenic, there’s a range, depending on the proteins in the particular pet’s fur. Regardless of fur length, all pets have dander, saliva, and urine, all of which are sources of allergy. If you’re adopting a new pet, “try out” several to check for a reaction.
      • –If you allow your cats outdoors (you shouldn’t, but that’s another article), they’re probably bringing in pollen and other allergens, so you may think you’re allergic to your cat when it’s really just the stuff they bring in. This applies to dogs as well, but cats are more likely to deposit their outdoor stuff all over your furniture.
      • –Do everything you can to accommodate pets in your home. By doing so, you’ll help protect the next generation from allergies—not just to dogs and cats, but to most common allergens.

      These suggestions won’t eliminate your spring allergies, but they should help. And they should definitely keep you from being so miserable that you’re tempted to get rid of your pets.

      Lisa J. Lehr is a writer and copywriter as well as animal lover living in Grass Valley. She can help you promote your business with a full range of online and offline marketing pieces. A member of Empire Toastmasters, she’s available to speak to your business or professional group.

      Visit her website www.justrightcopy.com for more information, opt in for a message series, and receive a free Marketing Guide.–
      Lisa J. Lehr
      I write words that make you money–just ask me how.
      www.justrightcopy.com
      Visit my website and sign up for my fr~ee marketing tips.
      New! No~cost Marketing Guide now available at my website.

      How to Protect Your Pets From Predators

      httpv://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tFW4w-61hic
      This is a video of a coyote “playing” with a family dog. Notice that the coyote keeps running into the bushes. Coyotes travel in packs and will play with a dog, luring the dog into the bushes where the rest of the pack is. Once in the bushes, the coyotes will kill and devour the dog.

      by Lisa J. Lehr

      Most of us living in Nevada County moved here because we like the rural environment. Rural environments include wildlife, and that, for the most part, is a plus; however, most of us also share our lives with beloved pets, and clashes between wildlife and pets often end in heartache for the pet owner.

      Coyotes are a particularly ubiquitous wild critter here in Nevada County, and pets falling prey to coyotes is a far too common occurrence. The consolation—if there is any—is that, compared to a car accident, dog attack, or abduction by a person with evil intentions, death by coyote is quick and, as far as we know, relatively suffering-free. Coyotes kill to eat, and they do it efficiently.

      Still, it is heartbreaking to lose a cherished pet, and it is our responsibility to take care of them.

      Coyotes are difficult to eradicate. They are becoming alarmingly unafraid of humans, with daytime sightings becoming more frequent. Trapping and relocating coyotes is not as good an idea as it may sound, as any young coyotes orphaned by this process will seek easy prey—e.g., our pets.

      They can be frightened, so if you see one, try shaking a noisemaker (like a can full of hardware) or throwing things at it. Fire a Super Soaker (high-powered toy water gun) filled with water or vinegar.

      More often, though, we don’t see them lurking around our property, as they are naturally nocturnal. The key to keeping coyotes away from your home (and your pets, your children, and you) is to eliminate all that attracts coyotes—mainly food. Coyotes are generalists, meaning they’ll eat just about anything.

      With that in mind:

      • Keep your cats and small dogs indoors at night; your medium and large dogs, too. Coyotes hunting in packs can take down a fairly big animal.
      • Rabbits, chickens, etc. that are kept outdoors need protection: strong fencing with a top, and/or a small enclosure inside it that they can hide in.
      • Don’t let your pets’ food become coyote bait. Cats are best fed indoors, and dogs should be fed only what they will eat all at once, with no leftovers.
      • Be careful with your bird feeders. Place them close to your house, and clean up spills. Do not feed squirrels, deer, or other wildlife. Any naturalist will tell you that birds are the only wild critters we should feed.
      • Put garden compost in enclosed bins, and gather your ripe fruits and vegetables immediately.
      • If your cats wear bells on their collars, take them off. The same bells that supposedly alert birds to your cats’ presence also betray their whereabouts to coyotes. (Once you’ve cleaned up the birdseed, you’ll have fewer birds within your cats’ reach, anyway.) One final consideration: cats who wear bells learn to be stealthier hunters, which leaves us with no reason that cats should ever wear bells.
      • Besides food, coyotes are attracted to potential partners. An unneutered male dog will be attracted to a female coyote; a male coyote will be attracted to an unspayed female dog; both scenarios spell trouble. Spay and neuter your pets.
      • Mothballs and ammonia around your property may repel coyotes, as will a motion-sensitive light.
      • Consider a fence. The type of fencing will need to be one that deters climbing and is in accordance with the CC&Rs of your neighborhood; at least six feet tall and extending six inches below ground. Some clever person has invented a “roll fence”; it has a rolling piece at the top, which keeps your cats from climbing out, or any uninvited guests from climbing in. As they try to grasp the top bar, it rolls. Wild critters stay out, tame ones in, and you and your pets live happily ever after.

      Coyotes will always be among us, but we don’t have to live in fear for our pets’ lives. Our best bet is to make them feel so unwelcome in civilization that they’ll pack up their families and move back to the wilderness.

      Lisa J. Lehr is a writer and copywriter as well as animal lover living in Grass Valley. She can help you promote your business with a full range of online and offline marketing pieces. A member of Empire Toastmasters, she’s available to speak to your business or professional group. Visit her website www.justrightcopy.com for more information, opt in for a message series, and receive a free Marketing Guide.

      Ever See a Cat Skeleton in a Tree?

      By Lisa J. Lehr

      This sarcastic question is usually intended to “prove” that cats never get stuck in trees. When they feel like coming down, they will, goes this misguided thinking. The premise of the lame joke, however, is utter nonsense. Cats do get stuck in trees. They do die. Here’s why, and what to do if your cat (or a cat you know) ever gets stuck in a tree.

      A cat usually climbs a tree for one of two or three reasons: she’s chasing something (like a squirrel), she’s running away from something (like a dog), or perhaps she just wants to see what’s up there. Okay, so Kitty is way-high-up in a tree, the danger (or the fun or the mystery) is gone, and it’s time to come down. Why doesn’t she come down on her own?

      A cat’s claws are designed for climbing up. A cat is not a squirrel; squirrels can climb up, down, and sideways, always headfirst, no problem. But a cat must climb with her head up to avoid falling, and once she’s up, the only way down is to back down. (The margay, or tree ocelot, a rare cat found in the rain forests of Mexico, Central America, and South America, is the only cat that can climb down a tree headfirst.)

      Once she’s close enough to the ground, she’ll turn around and jump down; the biggest challenge is a tree that has no low branches, like a pine tree. By the time the immediate danger or curiosity has passed, Kitty has used her burst of adrenaline and does not have enough energy left for the time-consuming, frightening task of descent. This is especially true of an indoor cat with little or no climbing experience.

      The good news is, cats have been known to survive over a week in a tree and have sustained falls of over a hundred feet without serious injury. The bad news is, a panicked cat will continue to go…up. Worse, a cat may eventually become too weak to climb down, and after a point, even if rescued, may die later of starvation, dehydration, or exposure.

      We don’t see cat skeletons in trees because of a well-known law of nature called gravity: Kitty becomes too weak to hold on, lets go, and falls.
      What do you do?
      If the cat is not too high—a distance you feel confident climbing yourself—wear gloves, long sleeves, and long pants. Take a pillowcase and rope with you. Make the first grab count; if you only succeed in scaring Kitty, she may go higher. Grab her by the scruff of the neck and stuff her into the pillowcase; secure it with the rope and lower it carefully to someone on the ground. Take the bagged kitty indoors before opening the pillowcase.

      If you can’t manage the rescue yourself, wait no more than a couple days. That’s about the longest it will take Kitty to decide to come down if she can. Call your cat. If it doesn’t encourage her to come down, it will at least let her know she’s not forgotten. Keep dogs and other unnecessary commotion away. Try tempting her with food.

      If your cat does not meow, it means one of two things: she’s too weak to do so (bad) or she doesn’t feel she is in trouble (good). Unfortunately, you can’t tell which it is.
      Get help sooner rather than later if:

      • It’s a kitten. Kittens do not have the weight or strength to hang on.
      • It’s an indoor cat. She’s not used to being exposed, and she has no climbing skills.
      • She’s declawed. A declawed cat has virtually no chance of climbing down without help.
      • The cat has been up there for more than two days. After this, her chance of getting down on her own declines sharply, especially considering she’s becoming weaker as time passes.
      • Wet, cold, or windy weather is forecast.
      • An electrical storm is forecast. If you do decide to call someone, he may decline to come, out of concern for his own safety.
      • She’s injured or literally stuck—wedged or (worse) impaled.
      • The stranded kitty’s plight is causing stress to you or another family member.
      • There’s a reasonable fear of attack by wild animals.
      • Her meowing is bothering someone. You don’t want a grouchy, cat-hating neighbor to shoot your cat down.

      Who’re you gonna call?
      Surprise! Not the fire department. Contrary to folk tradition, most fire departments no longer do cat rescues. Understandably, they do not want to commit their resources to animal rescues when a human rescue may be at stake. Sometimes off-duty firefighters do cat rescues on the side.

      Your best bet is a professional tree climbing service. Try these resources for a referral: your vet, pet stores, the Humane Society, Animal Control, the Yellow Pages, the local media, the classified ads.

      Tree climbers usually charge for their services, naturally; fees vary, and if travel or hazard duty is involved, will tend to be more. Hazard duty situations include night climbs, dead trees, and inclement weather. Remember, the tree climber’s life is valuable, too, and be understanding about the cost.

      He might trade some of his fee for a promise of future work (in trees without cats) and/or some free publicity. Hand out his business cards to your neighbors after the rescue. Animal rescues make great human-interest stories, so be sure to alert the media. Always be polite and respectful with tree climbers, whether they come through for your cat or not. We don’t want to discourage these heroes from future cat rescues.

      Some animal behaviorists say you can teach a cat how to climb down from a tree. If you decide to explore this option, please find an expert.

      The best option, of course, is to keep all your cats indoors. Cats can be taught to explore outdoors for brief periods under human supervision and come in when called. Some cats will walk on a leash. And if you have the resources and the skills, you can build a “cat sanctuary”—a fenced-in outdoor area your cats can access from indoors. Don’t forget that cats can climb, and put a top on it—which keeps out intruders as well.

      Lisa J. Lehr is a writer and copywriter as well as animal lover living in Grass Valley. She can help you promote your business with a full range of online and offline marketing pieces. A member of Empire Toastmasters, she’s available to speak to your business or professional group. Visit her website www.justrightcopy.com for more information, opt in for a message series, and receive a free Marketing Guide.


      Lisa J. Lehr
      I write words that make you money–just ask me how.
      www.justrightcopy.com
      Visit my website and sign up for my fr~ee marketing tips.
      New! No~cost Marketing Guide now available at my website.

      Are You a Dog or Cat Person?

      By Lisa J. Lehr

      Perhaps you’ve just bought your first home, and for the first time ever you have an opportunity to adopt a pet. Or perhaps you’ve had a dog or a cat and are wondering if the other kind of pet would work for you. So which is better: dog or cat?

      Consider the following questions.

      How much space do you have?

      Big dogs need space. Except for very senior dogs, they need a yard to run around in, or to be walked regularly. An under-exercised dog is likely to have behavioral problems, and you’re likely to be looking for a new home for him soon. Cats do just fine indoors (in fact they are much safer there), although several cats in a small apartment may feel crowded.

      How close are your neighbors?

      This question has to do with how much your pets are going to bother your neighbors. Barking dogs quickly make their owners unpopular. True, so do cats who dig and hunt in other people’s yards, but you can (and should) keep your cats indoors except under supervision. A barking dog can be heard over a significant distance.

      How much maintenance do you want to do?

      Dogs need to be walked, groomed, and usually fed on a schedule. Cats normally don’t. You may enjoy these jobs or be happy to pay someone else to do them. Just make sure you have a plan.

      Which kind of “bathroom duty” do you prefer?

      If your dog “goes” in your yard, you need to shovel it up before someone steps in it. If he “goes” while you’re out for a walk, you’ll need to bag it and bring it home to your garbage can. If your cat uses a litterbox, you’ll have to change it. (Some cats can be taught to use the toilet, but letting your cats roam freely outdoors just to avoid litter box detail is not responsible pet ownership.) So which one of these jobs is the least distasteful to you?

      Do you want to be tied to a feeding schedule?

      Cats are much more amenable to having a food bowl left out twenty-four-seven. Dogs are likely to either eat it all at once, or, if you leave for the day (or more), hoard it (not eat it at all), not knowing when you’re going to return to put out more food. Some dogs, however, are good at self-feeding, so if you’e adopting an adult dog, you may be able to select one who is.

      Are you prepared to teach your dog to respect your property?

      Yes, cats do claw the furniture and bite things. But the amount of damage a cat is likely to do is not in the same league with what dogs often do. We hear stories of dogs who shred the couch, dig a hole in the carpet, break a window to get out, chew up an entire wardrobe of shoes, etc. Cats are rarely guilty of these things.

      Finally, lots of pets are in need of homes with puppy and kitten season. In addition, due to the poor economy, many people are abandoning their pets which often end up in shelters.

      Lisa J. Lehr is a writer and copywriter as well as animal lover living in Grass Valley. She can help you promote your business with a full range of online and offline marketing pieces. A member of Empire Toastmasters, she’s available to speak to your business or professional group. Visit her website www.justrightcopy.com for more information, opt in for a message series, and receive a free Marketing Guide.

      Coyotes in Paradise – Watch Your Pets In Nevada County!

      by Lisa J. Lehr

      Most of us living in Nevada County moved here because we like the rural environment. Rural environments include wildlife, and that, for the most part, is a plus; however, most of us also share our lives with beloved pets, and clashes between wildlife and pets often end in heartache for the pet owner.

      Coyotes are a particularly ubiquitous wild critter here in Nevada County, and pets falling prey to coyotes is a far too common occurrence. The consolation—if there is any—is that, compared to a car accident, dog attack, or abduction by a person with evil intentions, death by coyote is quick and, as far as we know, relatively suffering-free. Coyotes kill to eat, and they do it efficiently.

      Still, it is heartbreaking to lose a cherished pet, and it is our responsibility to take care of them.

      Coyotes are difficult to eradicate. They are becoming alarmingly unafraid of humans, with daytime sightings becoming more frequent. Trapping and relocating coyotes is not as good an idea as it may sound, as any young coyotes orphaned by this process will seek easy prey—e.g., our pets.

      They can be frightened, so if you see one, try shaking a noisemaker (like a can full of hardware) or throwing things at it. Fire a Super Soaker (high-powered toy water gun) filled with water or vinegar.

      More often, though, we don’t see them lurking around our property, as they are naturally nocturnal. The key to keeping coyotes away from your home (and your pets, your children, and you) is to eliminate all that attracts coyotes—mainly food. Coyotes are generalists, meaning they’ll eat just about anything.

      With that in mind:

      ·         Keep your cats and small dogs indoors at night; your medium and large dogs, too. Coyotes hunting in packs can take down a fairly big animal.

      ·         Rabbits, chickens, etc. that are kept outdoors need protection: strong fencing with a top, and/or a small enclosure inside it that they can hide in.

      ·         Don’t let your pets’ food become coyote bait. Cats are best fed indoors, and dogs should be fed only what they will eat all at once, with no leftovers.

      ·         Be careful with your birdfeeders. Place them close to your house, and clean up spills. Do not feed squirrels, deer, or other wildlife. Any naturalist will tell you that birds are the only wild critters we should feed.

      ·         Put garden compost in enclosed bins, and gather your ripe fruits and vegetables immediately. Continue reading Coyotes in Paradise – Watch Your Pets In Nevada County!