Tag Archives: Argentina

Iguazu Falls Upper Trail and Devil’s Throat, Argentina

httpv://youtu.be/wxYABo65Dv8

This video shows the view from the upper trail and from the walkways along the Devil’s Throat.

The Argentine access across the forest, is by a Rainforest Ecological Train, The train brings visitors to the entrance of Devil’s Throat, as well as the upper and lower trails. The Paseo Garganta del Diablo is a 1-kilometre-long (0.6 mi) trail that brings the visitor directly over the falls of the Devil’s Throat, the highest and deepest of the falls. Other walkways allow access to the elongated stretch of falls across the forest on the Argentine side and to the boats that connect to San Martin Island. Also on the Argentinian side, there are inflatable boat services that take visitors right under the falls.

Mist rises between 100 and 490 feet from Iguazu’s Devil’s Throat, Iguazu affords fantastic views and walkways and its shape allows for spectacular vistas. At one point a person can stand and be surrounded by 260 degrees of waterfalls. The Devil’s Throat in Argentina has water pouring into it from three sides. Likewise, because Iguazu is split into many relatively small falls, one can view these a portion at a time.

On November 11 of 2011, Iguazu Falls was announced as one of the seven winners of the New Seven Wonders of Nature by the New Seven Wonders of the World Foundation.

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IGUAZU FALLS (Cataratas del Iguazú), Argentina

httpv://youtu.be/mui7BLvrHxg

By Judy J. Pinegar

The name “Iguazu” comes from the Guarani (native Indian) words “y“, meaning “water”, and “ûasú “[wa?su], meaning “big”. Legend has it that a god planned to marry a beautiful woman named Naipí, who fled with her mortal lover Tarobá in a canoe. In rage, the god sliced the river, creating the waterfalls and condemning the lovers to an eternal fall. The first European to see the falls was a Spanish Conquistador in 1541.

Puerto Iguazu, we had been here before, maybe 12 years ago, and it is now much more of a tourist trap. The hotel we had for about 150 pesos a night is now almost 600 pesos and the restaurant across the street cost us 300 pesos (poor us; this is 60 dollars or less as the rate is now over 6 pesos to the dollar, but still we resent the increased cost!)

We walked to Los Tres Fronteras (the three frontiers), where you can stand on Argentine soil and see both Brazil and Paraguay across two different Rivers, the Iguazu and the Parana, both greatly built up from the last time we were here. The next day we took a local bus (also now much inflated in price) to the Argentine falls. After a train ride, we spent about 5 hours walking both the lower and upper trails to see the falls. John’s video does great justice to the amazing sights on those trails.

Iguazu River tumbles over the edge of the Paraná Plateau, formed by volcanic activity. Numerous islands along 1.7 mile edge divide the falls into numerous separate waterfalls and cataracts, varying between 197 to 269 ft high. The number of these smaller waterfalls fluctuates from 150 to 300, depending on the water level. Names have been given also to many other smaller falls, such as San Martin Falls, Bossetti Falls and many others.  About half of the river’s flow falls into a long and narrow chasm called the Devil’s Throat (Garganta del Diablo in Spanish or Garganta do Diaboin Portuguese). (We will talk about and show this in our next blog.)


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San Ignacio and the Misiones Jesuitico Guaranies, Argentina

httpv://youtu.be/IJ6uT7RTEig

By Judy J. Pinegar

Misiones Jesuitico Guaranies, (Jesuit Missions of the Guarani Indians)

Now this is another small town, population 6,000, better paved, some asphalt and paving stones on other roads before getting to dirt. The Mission San Ignacio Mini is the main attraction down street lined with “tiendas turisticos” (little shacks selling stuff for tourists to buy). I don’t know why they call it “mini” because the Mission was self sustaining and quite large with over 4,000 inhabitants in the years from 1696 to 1767, when the Jesuits were ordered to leave by the King of Spain (so other people could take advantage of the Guarani Indians and what they produced). Then the site was ravaged by the Portugese and the Paraguans in 1817, and rediscovered, covered by the jungle in the 1940’s.

The rock work is fantastic, and most of the walls, anyway are intact. It must have been something to see in full operation. The mission was well ordered around a large square, with the church, school and cemetery on one end, housing for widows and others on the far end with family housing, wood and metalworkers around the sides in the shape of a cross.

Behind the main mission was the area for a huge garden, which was divided into plots for each family, and one for the church (where all worked) and which was used to feed the church officials, widows and others who couldn’t work.  Although the church taught about the Jesuit beliefs, they also allowed the native music, art and other practices to continue, and the sites provided protection to the Indians as well. At the peak of the mission period over 100,000 Indians lived in the 30 mission area, and mortality had dropped greatly. The Jesuits made no attempt to force the Indians to speak Spanish and the people were governed by their own chieftains under the spiritual authority of the priests. The Jesuits only sought to change the polygamy and occasional cannibalism that were practiced previously.

Next we will be off to Iguazu Falls or “La Cataracts”.


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Scenes of Posadas, Capital City of Misiones, Argentina

httpv://youtu.be/pFav9fPO0lI

By Judy J. Pinegar

We decided to leave Carlos Pelegrini a day early, as it is so had to get around here, not a lot to do that we haven’t done, and very hot. We have three times eaten at the same restaurant, on two occasions it was the only open place in town, and it took a lot of walking to find that out. So we are giving the family a plug, when in Carlos Pelegrini eat at the Yacaru Pora Restaurante. See John’s picture of me with the mother and son, of obvious German or Dutch extraction which seems common in this part of Argentina, a few blond heads.

We are leaving in a remise (car for hire) run by Hugo Boccalandro, who seems to be the wheeler and dealer in town for transportation due to the terrible bus situation, and we are going direct to Posadas, which is on the way to Iguazu Falls, our next long stop. The trip was a LONG one a very bad dirt road for about 2 of the three hours.

We saw some farms and many, many huge dirt mounds right out in the middle of a field or near a fence, and a lot near the town of Posada were there were electrical wires. I found out they are Argentine fire ants which I have discovered  have mounds up to 12 inches tall and wider at the base. However when you look at them, you see absolutely no activity.  Apparently they access the outside through tunnels going out in the dirt all around the mound, opening up about 30 yards away from the nest. We didn’t go check that out because in Carlos Pelegrini, John was bit by some of these very tiny ants on the hand, and three days later they still hurt! Wikipedia says they are also attracted to electricity.

We traveled along the edge of the Esteros del Iberia marshes for a long way, then across dry land to the town of Posadas which is on the river Parana. On the other side of the river is the country of Paraguay. We arrived there about 6 PM, and stayed in a hotel across from the main square, with the obligatory church and a nice park where we saw children running through a sort of unique ground level water fountain of various timing and heights. it was hot and I wished I could go in too.

Posadas is a larger town with about 300 thousand inhabitants, but not much in the way of sights as we discovered after walking all over town the next day trying to find open museums. Posadas is sort of a stopping point to see area where there are ruins of an old Jesuit mission  system (30 missions in Brazil, Paraguay and Argentina in the 1600’s and 1700’s. We decided to go to the small town of San Ignacio for a closer look… in our next blog


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In Carlos Pelegrini and Esteros del Iberia, Argentina

httpv://youtu.be/pZ-jeqN0KCI

By Judy J. Pinegar

I had planned our stay at a Hospedaja (rooms behind a private house rented by the night) and I had taken one without meals because we were so used to having food ALL around in towns, but this was not a town in that sense… as you will see…

But the place was very nice, clean rooms with beautiful peaceful grounds and the lady suggested we sleep until later in the day, as it was so hot, and that was a welcome suggestion!  At 7 PM, with it beginning to be dusk, we struck out for what looked like, on the map, several restaurants, a few blocks away. But as John has now repeated several times to my chagrin, “in this town each block is a mile” and, so it was, not to mention ALL the roads were dirt, sand actually, which at least did not raise much dust when motorcycles (mostly) drove by. So with the help of some local girls we found a restaurant after about 6 of these blocks. Very good food, and inexpensive too. Nobody else in the room the entire hour although we could see they were preparing for the 10 PM “rush”, But by then we were back in bed as the next morning we had requested a boat tour of the Estos del Ibera wetlands and lake with a 7 AM start.

For those who don’t know (and we didn’t either until this trip to Argentina, and we have been here four times!) Estos del Ibera is a huge nature preserve around several large lakes, marshes, and the associated wetlands, 800 square miles of protected wetlands. Here, about 80 inches of rain fall a year, and most of it is just expired by the plants of the wetlands, there is only one small river leaving the area. Within the protected area there are 60 lakes from three to nine feet deep. The lake we were on, Ibera, has TONS of floating islands of vegetative greenery which support a whole (endangered) ecosystem of plants, mammals, insects, birds (over 300 species), and reptiles; the town of Carlos Pelegrini is basically a peninsula, with a VERY high water table.

You can see John’s pictures for some of the creatures, although we did not see all that were in books on the subject as it was only a 2 1/2 hour trip. Some of our favorites were the Capybara, a mammal, and the largest known rodent in the world, which average 80 pounds when full grown! Also the Cayman, like an alligator, only smaller, of which there were tons in the wetlands and water (they eat mostly fish), and their numbers are high because after they are adults they have no natural predators.

A very common bird was the Southern Screamer (quite black with neck stripes and a little white), we also saw the White Headed Marsh Tyrant (the rest of her body is black) and her nest in a small bush, Egrets, Kingfishers and Cormorants.  I saw a Strange Tailed Tyrant  (see http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Strange-tailed_Tyrant) but John didn’t get a picture. We also saw a marsh deer but it was too far away for a picture (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Marsh_deer). Anyway it was a wonderful experience  and I can see this area becoming great for tourist traffic once they put in a few roads and a transportation system.


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From Buenos Aires to Ciudad Mercedes Then to Carlos Pelegrini

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Ciudad Mercedes at night

By Judy Pinegar

Well we have started our north eastern Argentine adventure, and it was a little rough at the beginning. We took the Via Barouche bus lines from Buenos Aires to Mercedes, a small town in the central portion of the north eastern province (like a state) in Argentina. It left at 7PM and the travel book I had said it would take 12 hours. The seats are roomy and allow you to lay down and elevate your feet, much better than an airline seat. So we thought we would be on it for the night. A nice meal (also better than airline food) was served at about 9:30 to 10, typical Argentine dinner time. then the movie began and it was very loud, couldn’t sleep, so about 11:30 or so we got to sleep. The next thing I know is that we are in Mercedes, and it is only 4:30 in the morning.

Mercedes is a very small town and there were no outward bound busses to Carlos Pelegrini shown until about 10:30 AM, so we sat and compared notes with a couple of traveling German girls, on a break after college, but now living in Chile. As the time approached and more offices were opened it became apparent that the bus we were waiting for would not go, it was broken. Several people with cars (called remises) came by to see if we wanted to go with them, but it was cost prohibitive, and in addition we found some of them greatly inflated the price when they saw John and I with our I pads!

So later we found a bus leaving from a different location at 12 PM, but our tiredness was compounded by the fact that we could find no open restaurants (at this time it was 11 AM and lunch in Argentina begins about 1PM). So we get on the bus which turns out to be a local milk run, driving all over town picking up people carrying packages (mostly food and things) to take to Carlos Pelegrini. Then the actual ride began, three hours on a bumpy dirt road. Oh my… hard on the bladder too.

But we saw a lot of wetlands, and some vaqueros and cattle (albeit they were ON the road)… see Johns “moving bus” pictures.

In the next adventure things will get better!

 


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Overview of Buenos Aires, Argentina

httpv://youtu.be/YovnHi7Jeeg

We’re back in Buenos Aires.  We took a ferry directly from Montevideo, Uruguay to Buenos Aires. It was supposed to arrive by 11 pm, but because of the delay in boarding and other factors it was an hour and half late. The biggest delay in boarding is that you have to go through immigration and you baggage has to be screened. There must of been over a hundred people boarding.

I get a lot of static from custom officials when I show them my Argentine citizenship ID but can’t speak Spanish.   Well, what do you expect? I left Buenos Aires when I was six and no one spoke Spanish then. (I have dual citizenships, both American and Argentinean).

We’ve gotten our bus tickets to head north towards Iguazú. In case you think Greyhound in the United States, forget it. The buses for long distance travel here are luxurious. We booked first class which includes seats that recline enough to sleep well, blankets, food, wine and other amenities. The buses are double decks and we’re right on top first row seats.

Yesterday we took a tour bus and saw some of the City that we had not seen in our previous visits here. The YouTube video shows some of our sights. The pictures are not great, but it’s hard to take good pictures on a moving bus.  Today we have lunch with friends and tonight we leave at seven to head north to our first stop  Esteros del Ibera a wetland preserve. It has an abundance of bird and wildlife, so it should be really interesting.

We’ll be out of internet connection for about three days so will post when we can.

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Buenos Aires to Colonia del Sacramento, Uruguay

barca-to-uruguay

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Boarding barca (boat) from Buenos Aires to Colonia del Sacramento, Uruguay.

By Judy Pinegar

Feb 13 &14, 2013

After a frustrating morning trying to make reservations in the north eastern part of Argentina, we decided to go to Uruguay.  So a Subte ride downtown and a visit to the Barcobus (Ferry) Terminal and we had two tickets to travel on the ferry to Colonia del Sacramento in Uruguay.

On the way back we visited the park of San Martin, a beautiful park with wild trees and an equestrian monument in bronze on a base of polished granite that does honor to General Jose de San Martin and four major milestones related to South American independence.

The next day, Feb 14 we boarded the barca (ferry) named the Eladia Isabel to Uruguay and three very smooth hours later we were there. There was entertainment, food and beverages and views of islands and container ships. We found a much improved terminal on the Uruguayan side from our last visit, and a short taxi ride got us to the nice hotel.

It was located in a area we remembered from our last visit, and we were hoping the same restaurant down the calle (street) was open… it was and we had a wonderful meal of rack of lamb and a wonderful salad with fresh fruit (see pictures).

Colonia del Sacramento was founded in 1680 by the Portuguese. What still remains, stone houses, streets of cobblestones (sometimes slanted toward the middle so the rain can drain down), old walls that were formerly a fortress in the old part of town are enchanting. And the whole town is filled with trees, just like our Sacramento, California.

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Buenos Aires, – Casa Rosada (Think White House for Argentina)

casa-rosada

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Casa Rosada

By Judy Pinegar

Feb 12, 2013

With the Subte working a little better we rode to the Plaza De Mayo, a national park. right in front of the Casa Rosada (The Pink House) which used to be both the residence and office of the Argentine President. Now it is just an office, mostly for diplomatic purposes, and on weekends and holidays we found it is now open for tours. We has also discovered that Monday and today were a national holiday “Carnival”, although we saw nothing that looked like a party where we were.

Amazingly different this time… when we were last here, maybe 4 years ago, there was a huge military presence (like an armed guard every 6 feet) all around the park which itself was also in great disrepair, and the Casa Rosada was barricaded off entirely, except for a small museum around to the side. This time the park was beautiful, although very crowded with pigeons, a lot of the barricades were down, and you could walk right up to the Casa Rosada, and we discovered, even take a tour!

It was fantastic, over an hour long in Spanish and English covering three floors. Among our favorites were Eva Peron’s room, the famous portico from which Argentine presidents speak to the people in the plaza, and of course the similar Presidential office (like the Oval Office in the White House).

There was one long hall with pictures of famous Argentine people including actors, musicians and soccer players which had all the other tourist ooing and ahing, but John and I didn’t know anyone! There were two different rooms made up for the President to make major speeches, one was very ornate, with a lot of gold leaf on all the decorative wood pieces. All in all a very beautiful building and a fascinating tour.

The current president is Cristina Elisabet Fernández de Kirchner, now on her second term, although we here grumbling that many Argentines no longer like her. She is supposed to be out after this term, but we also hear she is trying to change the constitution to allow another term. She is the wife of the former president who also had two terms, but has since passed away.

For more information and pictures of all the rooms in the house (including the ones in we were not allowed to take pictures) go to: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Casa_Rosada

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From New York to Argentina- Buenos Aires

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Looking out the window at Lagurdia Airport after the "Blizzard" in New York.

By Judy Pinegar

What a trip… wake up at 9 AM in New York, outside temperature low 30’s… 6 inches of snow on the ground, taxi to the airport, wait 2 hours, flight to Houston, Texas, 4 hours, wait in Houston airport 4 hours, 10 hour flight to Argentina, arrive at 10:20 AM in Buenos Aires, 23 hours later (including a time change), outside temperature 84 degrees!  Boy am I hot.. take off that winter stuff.

Next, in line at the customs in Buenos Aires. John as citizen could go through the short line, but he stays with me, and the rest of the “touristas.” That night we have a hard time finding an open restaurant, this is a Catholic city and it is Sunday.

Feeling much better, the next morning we are off to get reconnected to the city. But it turns out it is a holiday…what holiday we have no idea as of yet. Seems like a lot of the subte (subway) entrances are closed, not like before? Don’t know why? Also inflation has really hit, we had to pay 180 pesos for breakfast that is 36 dollars!!

We walked almost all the way to Plaza del Majio, then up Florida Street usually a huge shopping area but a lot of construction right now in the center of the street. walked into Pacifico the upscale shopping center We were looking for a hat for Judy, but a simple cotton one was 55 US dollars…way to upscale for us.

So we continue walking until we got to Cordoba, then within a few blocks on Maipu off Cordoba took pictures  the apartment John used to live in with his mother (when he was born anyway, according to the birth certificate).  Several more blocks right on Cordoba and we were at the fancier apartment that John’s father lived at – again according to our handwritten in Spanish birth certificate for John (actually Juan Santiago Mazzolani – I want him to go back to his real name!)

Walking back to the apartment we took a picture of a restaurant sporting an asada or barbecue grill typical of Argentina where they eat a lot of meat, this was an upscale one, we mostly seen them outside a restaurant. Then home to bed.

 


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